Gioia Seghers - "Refinement, pure and simple." Fashion - 09 March 2015
For this Belgian designer who graduated from La Cambre two years ago, Paris Fashion Week, which starts this week, is the opportunity to present her third collection. A 2015/2016 winter collection that's graceful and perhaps a little stronger than the one before, very much like her theme (the world of the Samurai) and her rapidly growing label.
When she pronounces the word "Maxmara", she does so with a hint of an accent that brings to mind her Italian origins. In Gioia's case, this detail is more significant than it first appears. Because the love of fashion is something she's inherited. From her mother, a lover of beautiful clothes, ones that last and that one keeps for years. Like that famous Maxmara coat that belongs to her today. A garment that shaped her fashion vocabulary, her approach to beauty, how demanding she is when it comes to choosing materials and constructing cuts. After leaving La Cambre, in 2014, Gioia Seghers decided to launch her own brand. Supported by WBDM, she presented her first collection at the Parisian showroom No Season. A collection consisting, among other things, of sublime coats in woollen fabric (reminiscent of that of her childhood), as well as lace dresses elevated by the addition of hand-applied metal eyelets.
From kimono to Samurai
A year later, Gioia Seghers has succeeded in growing her brand. Without cutting corners. Surrounded and supported by people she trusts (Philippe Pourhashemi, her coach at WBDM, photographer Tine Claerhout and the Tadam Studio co-operative, which designed the presentation of her campaigns), she defines her world with increasing precision. The broderie anglaise, fishnet mesh, light fabrics and the red kimono of this spring-summer will make way, next winter, for a more colourful palette. "I think that red kimono has brought me luck. Perhaps that's what made me want more colours. As far as my inspiration goes, it's the result of a chance encounter. At one of my client's homes, I came across some Samurai armour. The beauty of those pieces is what made me want to explore this theme. The winter collection is, of course, inspired by the world of women Samurai. It's the contrast between the strength of those women warriors and the refinement of their clothing that interested me."
An expert eye and expert support
Throughout the development phase of this winter collection, Gioia Seghers was able to benefit from the attentive support of Philippe Pourhashemi. "His eye is very important. Just as the eyes of the people around me are. Those exchanges of ideas and opinions enrich my creative process," confirms the designer who makes it a point of honour to present a collection entirely produced in Brussels. "The clothes are made in a workshop with which I've formed very strong bonds. I do all the finishing touches myself, by hand. Including applying the eyelets, which feature strongly this spring/summer". The designer has made extremely light fabrics and easy-to-wear garments the keynote of this season, but with extremely sophisticated details such as ribbons woven from a fine white fishnet fabric. Freshness, purity, a keen feeling for detail, meticulousness, precision, refinement and utter appeal. No single sentence can sum up the definition of Gioia Seghers' work. But if you take the time to stop and look at a garment that bears her signature, words become superfluous. You fall under its spell. Pure and simple.
By Marie Honnay