a.Knackfuss : confident and hybrid garments Fashion - 25 September 2014
Referencing the vocabulary and shapes of sportswear -with a focus on refinement and contrasting fabrics- a.KNACKFUSS' last collection is an ode to athleticism and style in movement, hitting the right balance between embellishment and the demands of an urban lifestyle. Alice Knackfuss draws precious inspiration from pioneering women in sports, such as Amelia Bloomer, Amanda Clement, Suzanne Lenglen or Isobel Stanley. She also incorporates Art Deco elements within her pieces, echoing the pure and modernist lines of the 1930s. Working with stark geometrical shapes, Knackfuss uses monochrome looks as well as vibrant tones, like fluorescent coral, bright multicolored prints, gleaming white or graphic black. Pieces are either cropped or oversize, adding energy and flair to the overall silhouette. Made to be layered and combined freely, her clothes go from day to evening, displaying their unique sense of humor. The designer's dog -reinterpreted as an embroidered logo on polo shirts- is not the only animal making an entrance this season: playful flamingos are landing on tops and sweatshirts, adding a fun-loving touch to carefully cut garments. The mesh of a tennis court net becomes an amusing trim on a gray sweatshirt, while Knackfuss mixes mesh with leather, matte with transparent, silk with neoprene. Artfully combining the technical and the noble, the designer reasserts her unique voice, creating confident and hybrid garments.
Text : Philippe Pourhashemi
Photo : Laeticia Bica